Cooking Up History: 30 Years of the Culinary Historians of Canada

In the 1990s, the discipline of food history was relatively new in Canada. While morsels of Canadian culinary history could be gleaned from cookbooks, regional histories, and the experiences of cooks in historic kitchens, food largely remained on the margins of historical inquiry. But as interest grew, a small group of culinary history enthusiasts—Fiona Lucas, Christine Ritsma, and Bridget Wranich—decided in 1994 to establish an organization that would unite academics, historians, librarians, archivists, historical interpreters, and others passionate about Canadian food. Initially named the Culinary Historians of Ontario, the group rebranded themselves as the Culinary Historians of Canada (CHC) in 2010 to reflect the national scope of their objectives. Broadly, their mandate is to research, interpret, preserve, and celebrate Canada’s vast culinary heritage. Each year, a series of programs and events is planned for members and the public, which aim to educate how, over time, food and drink became so ingrained in Canada’s many cultures.

In 2014, a new partnership between CHC and the Taste Canada Awards was initiated to celebrate the impact and achievements of Canadian food writers and historians. A Hall of Fame Awards was established by Taste Canada in 2009, and the first lifetime honouree, Elizabeth Driver, was chosen for her comprehensive work, Culinary Landmarks: A Bibliography of Canadian Cookbooks, 1825-1949, which is featured in this exhibition. Five years later, the CHC began sponsoring the posthumous induction of distinguished cookbook writers into the Hall of Fame and then both lifetime and posthumous inductees in 2015. Most recently (2023), cookbook writers Anne Lindsay and Jean Paré were honoured.

This exhibition commemorates the Culinary Historians of Canada’s 30th anniversary and celebrates the recipients of the Taste Canada Hall of Fame awards. Cookbooks written by some of Canada’s most beloved food writers, historians, chefs, and television personalities are highlighted. The thirty-five books on display—one by each of the Hall of Fame inductees— were published between 1855 and 2021 and were drawn from the vast Culinary Collection housed at the University of Guelph’s Archival & Special Collections. “Cooking Up History” is a tribute to the trailblazers who have inspired Canadians to appreciate their rich culinary heritage.

This exhibition was curated by Dr. Rebecca Beausaert (Adjunct Professor), Melissa McAfee (Special Collections Librarian), Graham Burt (Archival & Special Collections Associate), and Andrew Manners and Sierra Susi (Special Collections Assistants), in collaboration with students in Dr. Beausaert’s HIST*3240: Food History course. Students in Melissa McAfee’s HIST*3560: Behind the Scenes in Archival and Rare Book Collections course interviewed fourteen distinguished cookbook authors, chefs, and food writers for the “Milestones in Culinary History”. These podcasts will be available on this site soon.

                                                                                     

This exhibition is dedicated to Rose Murray (1941-2023), an internationally recognized Canadian food writer, teacher, and media personality. After studying at Le Cordon Bleu and other international cooking schools, Murray wrote thirteen cookbooks in her lifetime and contributed to forty others. She was the recipient of several awards that honoured her commitment to making Canadian cuisine delicious and accessible. In 2015, she was inducted into the Taste Canada Hall of Fame. Murray’s The Christmas Cookbook: Great Canadian Recipes (1979) is featured in this exhibition. Murray presented this copy to her friend, celebrated Canadian cookbook writer Elizabeth Baird, with the inscription “Love, Rose.” 

                                                                                            

Student Curators: Braeden Bett, Arianna Burel, Ethan Burnside, Andrew Coelho, Nathan Davis, Lowri Davison, Emma Desilets, Clark Elliott, Sarah Gammage, Isabela Gondar, Rheanne Green, Nick Guardiero, Liam Ham, John Henderson, Hannah Klein, Meghan Lai, Jake Link, Evelyn Locke, Leylaan Los, Katelyn MacGillivray, Zac Marshall, Gorad Muhumed, Coco Myers, Cassidy Ross, MacKenzie Simpson, Ashley Szwez, Lara Turner, Jay Upadhyaya, Carmen White, Sarah White, Madi Witt, and Ashley Wood.


“Milestones in Culinary History” interviews conducted by students in Melissa McAfee’s Behind the Scenes in Archives & Rare Books course: Shelby Collier, Alex Copeman, Katie Dinner, Zoe Fink, Olivia Hayward, Kelly Hughes, Harisha Kaur, Kyle Last, Josh Lehman, Ollie Orman, Isabella Paganelli, Stephanie Parker, Lia Payne, Tia Pelrine, Abigail Purches, Holly Reid, Breah Snow, Anna Tchobanian, Molly Van de Kraats


Consultant: Fiona Lucas (Food Historian and Co-Founder, Culinary Historians of Canada)




 

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