Cooking Up History
The Cold War may be one of the most intriguing moments in the study of food history. To place the B’nai B’rith International Cook Book in historical context, one must understand the global issues which surrounded a post-Second World War world. As such, it is pertinent to discuss the feelings of housewives in the mid to late twentieth century. In Canada, there were many concerns of communist invasion in the average Canadian household. Specifically, in the post-War period of 1947-8, there were demonstrations by Housewives Consumer Associations against price increases of food. The federal government at the time considered these demonstrations and protests to cause panic, citing communist concerns. What this shows is the direct impact on food the Cold War had. Supplies were low, and to make matters worse, citizens were agitated. Those who tried to speak up would be silenced. Some of the recipes in the cookbook come from countries which were under Soviet control in 1968, which explains why the countries listed within no longer exist.
During this time, B’nai B’rith International was working in difficult areas around the world, attempting to placate harassment and violence against Jewish people. In 1967, Egypt and Israel were on the brink of total war, with both sides mobilizing troops. Meanwhile, amidst this chaos in the East, the New York chapter of B’nai B’rith would have been working on publishing their cookbook. Their involvement in world politics abroad may have assisted in their research for the international recipes they included in their final edition.
As a consequence of the Cold War, recipes from occupied countries would have been quite different than those that preceded the war. A study of West Germany in the late 1950s until the 1960s saw an increase in fatty and sugary foods, which caused forty percent of the population to be overweight. This may have caused inaccuracy in the recipes procured in the cookbook, due to the changing political atmosphere. Contrary to this, however, is that the cookbook becomes a primary source for the type of cuisines around the world that changed throughout the twentieth century. Though the recipes are not reflective of an earlier culinary history of a given country, they give historians a glimpse into how people ate under Soviet control.
Another facet of cuisine that is emulated within the cookbook is Jewish cuisine. Given that the publisher is a Jewish organization, this would make sense. The recipes featured in the back section of the book are all traditional Jewish recipes. During the Cold War, rationing was quite common among Holocaust survivors, which likely changed some of the recipes that were used.
The 1960s were also a time of great change for the average American home, and subsequently, the kitchen. New products arrived on the market with rapid succession, which had a profound impact on how people consumed and cooked their daily meals. The influence of Julia Child is also quite notable, as she was responsible for popularizing French cuisine in America during the 1960s and 70s. This would have certainly influenced the authors in their decision to include French dishes in the cookbook.
Overall, the impact of the International Cook Book is how effective it is as a primary source. It allows historians to view the culture of New York based Jews in the late 1960s, through a lens of international relations and culture. It also allows scholars to see the direct impact that Communism had on people on a smaller scale; meals are the basis for human experience and culture. There is a lot to be learned about a culture through the food they eat. Thus, the study of food history is important for the larger understanding of a historical narrative.